31 December 2012

Christmas dinner: the dessert

pears in coffee syrup

Vegan desserts are easy: just go for the fruit. Since it's winter, we went for pears. It also helped substantially that we've been watching a lot of Jacques Pepin videos (what else is new?) and had just seen him make a delightful-looking dessert of pears in coffee syrup. Pears in coffee syrup it is!

We didn't want to have to watch a video while cooking, so I went searching and uncovered this article on Jacques Pepin's pears in coffee syrup from a Chicago Tribune article originally published when I was nine. Um. Hooray! We ended up combining the two recipes a bit, and doubling them besides. I left the amounts as is for six servings here.

You can use any pear you have for this. We decided on tiny seckel pears, which we kept whole for presentation. If you use larger pears, you might want to halve and seed them.

pears in coffee syrup

Poached pears in coffee syrup

pears for 6 (we served 2 little ones apiece)
2 cups coffee
1/3 cup brown sugar
1 tsp vanilla
dash brandy
arrowroot
sliced almonds
dark chocolate

Start by washing and peeling your pears.

We had a slight issue deciding what to do about the pear seeds. The recipe said to core the pears out from the bottom. This did not work so well. So we decided to just remove the blossom scars and leave the seeds for people to eat around. I thought this might turn out to be a problem, but when it came down to eating my pears, I discovered it was actually not a big deal at all. So. Don't worry about it.

Make a syrup by gently heating your coffee, sugar, and vanilla over medium heat. Add your pears, in one layer if possible, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until your pears are tender to the point of a knife.

Remove and reserve your pears. Keep cooking the coffee syrup until it reduces by about 1/3. To thicken, mix a couple spoonfuls of the syrup with half a teaspoon of arrowroot in a measuring cup. Add a bit of arrowroot mixture to the syrup and stir well; it will thicken on contact. You can add as much of the arrowroot mixture as you prefer. Keep in mind that the coffee syrup will also thicken a bit off the heat.

Next, add a glug of brandy (or other liqueur of your choice--kahlua, frangelico?), stir, and remove the syrup from the heat. Pour it over the pears.

Chill your pears and syrup until you're ready to eat.

pears in coffee syrup

Serve a pear or two per person, with a spoonful of syrup. You can choose to serve the pears over something like pound cake, or to add ice cream or whipped cream, but we just left ours as is.

Garnish each dish with shaved chocolate and sliced toasted almonds. We used this exciting dark chocolate we found at the East Lansing food co-op.

delightful chocolate

The finished product was pretty adult and sophisticated, with an edge of bitterness to contrast with sweet fruit and sugar syrup.

So that was our massive Christmas feast. Now all we have to do is sit down and breathe and wait for the new year. Oh, and go get bagels and cream cheese and champagne and orange juice. But we can handle that, right? Right?

I hope all of you guys had an amazing holiday, and are looking forward to a wonderful new year!

Christmas dinner: the vegetables

christmas dinner: green salad, white bean butternut squash soup, peas with pearl onions & endive, roasted vegetables

Oh boy. Where do we start?

Since we were feeding a selection of omnivores, vegetarians, and vegans, we wanted to keep everything but the roast and its accoutrements vegan. This way everyone could eat everything without worrying about it at all. This also meant the vegetable selection was quite extensive. Good deal, but a lot to write about in one go.

We started the night before with vinaigrette and white bean butternut squash soup (and the roast sauce, but we've already covered that).

Our standard vinaigrette comes from the Bouchon cookbook and consists of only three ingredients. It's super easy, although you do need a blending device of some kind.

Red wine dijon vinaigrette

1/4 cup dijon mustard
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 1/2 cups canola oil

Mix together your mustard and vinegar in a blender or with some sort of blending device. We used an immersion blender this time; it worked admirably. Slowly pour in half a cup of your oil, blending the entire time to emulsify. Now pour your mixture into an appropriate mixing bowl and whisk in the rest of the oil in a steady, slow stream. Voila! A delightful vinaigrette that goes well with practically any salad.

The soup was one of our two main vegan/vegetarian protein sources. We knew we wanted to do something white bean-based, since white bean soups are generally excellent. But we hadn't decided on the exact soup until we actually got to John's mom's house and discovered three big butternut squashes on the kitchen counter.

white bean butternut squash soup

White bean butternut squash soup

butternut squash
onion
garlic
carrots
celery
olive oil
cooked white beans
bay leaf, fresh thyme, sage, marjoram, salt & pepper
water/vegetable broth/bean broth
optional dry vermouth or white wine
chives or parsley to garnish

This is a pretty standard vegetable and bean soup. You can probably figure out what to do just by looking at the list of ingredients.

Start by peeling, seeding, and cubing your butternut squash. We used two squashes to serve eleven people. This is by far the most arduous part of this recipe. Peel and dice your onion, mince your garlic, and chop up your scrubbed carrots and celery while you're at it. I'd use about one medium to large onion, a handful of garlic cloves, a big carrot, and a couple stalks of celery per squash. Since we had two squashes, we doubled everything up.

In a large soup pan, warm a slug of olive oil. Add the onion, garlic, carrot, and celery; saute over medium to medium-high heat. Season with a bit of salt, a branch or two of fresh thyme, a couple bay leaves, and some dried sage and marjoram. Congratulations! You now have garlicky vegan mirepoix!

When your mirepoix is soft and aromatic and delicious and starting to turn golden, add your cubed squash. Mix everything up and cook, stirring occasionally, for a good five to tem minutes. If necessary, deglaze the bottom of the pan with a couple glugs of dry vermouth or white wine.

Next, add your white beans to the pot and cover everything with water or the broth of your choice. We used three cans of beans, drained, since making dry beans from scratch was a little much to do on top of everything else. If you make your own beans from scratch, go ahead and use their broth in the soup.

white bean butternut squash soup

Bring your soup to a boil, lower heat, cover, and simmer until all your vegetables are tender. Take the pot off the heat, remove the bay leaves and thyme branches, and puree with an immersion blender. Then put the pan back on the heat to reduce down to your preferred thickness. Taste and correct seasonings, adding some black pepper at the least.

When the soup is to your liking, serve it with the garnish of your choice. Hooray!

Both of these went into the refrigerator to wait overnight.

The next day, we were up bright and early (read: by eleven) and got into the kitchen to start cooking everything that needed to be chilled before serving. So we made lentils vinaigrette and our dessert, which is getting its own post later.

The lentils were obviously our other big protein source.

I've talked about lentils vinaigrette a couple times before. The recipe, again, comes from the Bouchon cookbook (and yes, you should go to the library and take a look). They are super easy, although time-consuming, and worth a search for puy lentils. We found ours in the bulk bins at the East Lansing food co-op (which, incidentally, is well worth a visit if you're in town). If you can't find puy lentils, this would still be well worth a try with standard green or beluga lentils. Don't use red; they'll disintegrate.

We doubled this recipe for as many lentils as possible.

Lentils vinaigrette

puy lentils
onion
carrot
leek
herb bouquet: garlic, bay leaves, fresh thyme, peppercorns
water
salt, pepper
red wine vinegar
red onion
chives & parsley
vinaigrette

First, make the herb bouquet. Tie up a halved head of garlic, 12 peppercorns, 3 bay leaves, and 3 thyme branches in a piece of cheesecloth. We did not have cheesecloth, and ended up using coffee filters sewed together with thread. Okay then.

Pick over and rinse a cup of lentils. Put them into a large saucepan or dutch oven, along with your herb bouquet, half an onion, a whole scrubbed or peeled carrot, and a halved and washed leek. Cover with water by two inches.

lentils vinaigrette

Bring the whole shebang to a boil and then immediately reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the lentils are cooked through.

Next, pour the whole pan of lentils, vegetables, and liquid into a casserole dish or other wide, deep dish. Add two tablespoons of salt and two teaspoons of red wine vinegar, stirring gently to combine. Let the lentils cool in their liquid. This will take awhile. When the dish is cool, remove and discard the herb bouquet and the vegetables, leaving just the lentils behind.

Strain the lentils in a sufficiently fine sieve. Mix them with half a cup of finely diced red onion and dress them with vinaigrette. Add salt and pepper to taste.

When you're ready to serve, garnish with more finely diced red onion and a big handful of snipped fresh chives and parsley. If you're not keeping it vegan, a dice of hard-boiled egg is really good too.

After we finished making the lentils and dessert, we stuck them in the refrigerator and took a wine break.

Next: mashed potatoes. You know how to make mashed potatoes. The only thing we do differently is poaching our garlic in olive oil.

christmas dinner

Mashed potatoes with garlic poached in olive oil

potatoes
garlic
olive oil
rice milk
salt & pepper
chives & etc to garnish

Peel and quarter as many potatoes as you want to eat. Bring a sufficient pot of water to a boil, add the potatoes and a bit of salt, and boil until tender. Depending on your potatoes, this may take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour.

While your potatoes are cooking, poach your garlic. Start by smashing a bunch of garlic cloves with the flat of your knife and removing the peels. Put a small saucepan on the heat, add enough olive oil to sufficiently season your potatoes, and add the whole smashed garlic cloves. Cook very gently over the lowest possible heat for at least twenty minutes. Congratulations: you now have a beautiful garlic-infused oil.

When your potatoes are done cooking, drain them well. Mash them with a couple splashes of rice milk or other non-dairy milk of your choice. Add in the oil, garlic cloves, and some salt and pepper to taste, and beat together until well mixed.

Garnish with chopped fresh herbs. Voila!

Peas, pearl onions, and endive

Peas, pearl onions, and endive

olive oil
bag of peeled red pearl onions
several heads of endive
two bags of frozen peas
salt & pepper
white wine

John made this one, so I'm not entirely sure how it went down. Let's ask him.

"Ok. So. Put oil in. Cook the pearl onions. When the onions are soft and have some color on them, core the endive and cut them into quarters. Put the endive in with a little bit of water and white wine. Stock is fine too. When that was soft I added the peas, salt and pepper, and a little bit of oil. And that's it."

THERE YOU HAVE IT.

In last-minute prep, we made a green salad. This was very simple, and just consisted of washed & dried salad greens tossed with some of our vinaigrette. No worries there; we just had to make it immediately before we sat down to eat. I believe we used a mix of romaine hearts and baby spinach.

Then we all sat down to eat as much as humanly possible.

Here's my plate.

christmas dinner

Needless to say, no one left that table the slightest bit hungry. Success!

Next: dessert.

29 December 2012

Christmas dinner: the meat

Vegans, you may want to look away for this portion of the evening. I'm just saying.

rib roast of beef

The problem with cooking a huge piece of meat is that we don't normally do it. This made the angsting over this part of christmas dinner fairly extreme. I was all for making a much more standard main dish, but John really wanted to do something big and fancy, and why not? It's christmas dinner; when else are you going to be so fancy?

But we didn't know what to do, so we decided to let the meat selection decide for us. We asked John's mom and future stepdad for a butcher recommendation and drove out to Merindorf Meats in Williamston, MI.

The real question is why neither of us had ever been there before. John grew up maybe five miles away. Of course, John is also a vegetarian, so that's probably why, right? Still. It was a really excellent market, with super knowledgeable people who not only practically picked out dinner for us, but also gave us detailed cooking instructions for everything. WELL WORTH IT.

So we bought a rib roast. Except we didn't buy just a rib roast--we bought an entire massive side of beef. Like, a 16 pound quarter-cow-torso. The extremely helpful butcher cut off eight pounds of it for a swanky dinner rib roast, and then chopped the rest into eight 1-lb steaks. So we made the rib roast for one big family dinner and took the eight steaks to the gathering for the other half of the family.

rib roast of beef

The cooking was pretty easy. For one thing, the butcher had packed the meat in an herbed marinade for us. I have no clue what was in it. What I do know is that we didn't have to do ANYTHING to the meat before cooking. Zero.

John (who was in charge of meat) started things off by browning the roast on all sides in a hot frying pan while the oven preheated to 400F/200C.

When everything was brown and crusty, the roast (prepped with meat thermometer) went into the oven. We left it for 20 minutes at 400F/200C, and then turned the heat down to 325F/160C for the long haul, which was approximately another two hours. At maybe an hour in, John added a bunch of cut potatoes, carrots, and pearl onions to the pan. (Yes, we sat there and peeled a sack of pearl onions. YAY.)

rib roast of beef

When the internal temperature read 135F/57C, we took the roast out of the oven, tented it with foil, and let it rest for half an hour. According to the recipe the butchers gave us, medium rare is 140F/60C, but, like everything else, a big roast will keep cooking a bit after you take it out of the oven. So.

When John's mom sliced the roast, we discovered we had gone a bit over--it turned out just about medium--but that was ok. It was still really beautiful and juicy, with a fine grain and excellent texture. Hooray!

sour cream horseradish sauce

We served our roast with a simple pan jus and a sour cream horseradish sauce, which we made the night before and left in the refrigerator overnight. This was super simple: mix sour cream with jarred horseradish, season with salt and pepper, and chill. That's it. Needless to say, this was not only excellent on the meat, but also on mashed potatoes.

Success!

Next up: all the vegetables in the land. SUBSTANTIAL vegetables.

27 December 2012

Post-Christmas wrapup

leftover garlic mashed potatoes with horseradish sour cream sauce and lentils vinaigrette

I swear, I am getting something posted today.

So hi! I hope you are all having a wonderful holiday. We saw a whirlwind of family and friends in Michigan, and then topped it off with ten hours of travel on Christmas day. After the last stage of the journey (which consisted of car, bus, plane, train, train, and train) we walked up to the only thing open--CVS--and got frozen pizza and wine for our Christmas dinner. Hooray!

Our big family dinner went off with only the most minor of hitches. The menu, which needed to satisfy children, omnivores, vegetarians, and vegans, went as follows:

- Rib roast with sour cream horseradish sauce
- White bean and butternut squash soup
- Green salad with homemade dijon red wine vinaigrette
- Lentils vinaigrette
- Peas, endive, and pearl onions
- Mashed potatoes with garlic poached in olive oil
- Pears braised in coffee syrup with shaved chocolate

Recipes and discussion to follow. It was a very long day of cooking, but we did it. Hooray x2!

I spent the next two days eating leftover mashed potatoes with sour cream horseradish sauce and lentils vinaigrette for breakfast. Then we came home, where I sat on the couch and exhaustedly played puzzle games for a full day, and then tried valiantly to catch up on my feed backlog of 632 posts. And here we are.

More to come on our big dinner in the near future. Hope your holiday feasts went well!

22 December 2012

Check in

Michigan in the snow

Hey! what's going on? We are in MICHIGAN and have been running around like crazy seeing all our family and friends. More family and friends are forthcoming. I need a nap. How about you?

Tomorrow John and I are cooking a large holiday feast for 11, including two children, one vegan, one official vegetarian that I'm aware of, three people who only eat meat on limited occasion, and four omnivores. We have acquired a truly prodigious amount of supplies for the occasion. Tonight is for soup and vinaigrette-making; tomorrow is for the full feast. I'll let you know how it goes.